This post is to help me remember things learned through the build process, as well as commentary from people I should listen to.
Steve Clark noted on in the Dinghy Anarchy thread:
A couple of thoughts.SHC
- I hope you slopped a couple of good coats of paint and or sealer on the inside of the hull before putting the deck down
- Keeping the thin plywood dry is going to make a difference to how it all feels and lasts
- Epoxy really is cool stuff and hard to live without, I know about keeping the kids toxin free, but maybe there s something in between
- Tony DiLima at MAAS has a "Lo-Tox" hardener for MAAS epoxies which is quite a bit like the old Versamid hardeners we used to use with Dow and Epon resins. Used to say "it takes a quart to kill you" There are other choices that are pretty benign that may allow you to seal and glue the bits together without feeling like you are giving the kids a head start on their cancer
- CAN$ 750 doesn't seem that cheap to me.... unless it is for both boats
Eric mentioned a few things in passing during a conversation as well:
- The PL Premium adhesive bonded stronger and better than the PL 300. The PL Premium isn't Styrofoam friendly, but he felt it a better choice unless it was directly bonding the Styrofoam. He thought the PL 300 was a good choice for the Styrofoam
- Eric felt if the boat was built with epoxy instead of the construction adhesive it would be dramatically lighter & stronger yet. Robert had 20 empty 300ml tubes in the garbage after the hull build, and that is a lot of weight
- Subtract >400 #6 brass screws as well, that's got to weight a couple pounds
- Eric felt the PL construction adhesive was okay, but not optimal for a lot of the jobs in assembly - it filled gaps well and worked in situations where you would fillet thickened epoxy, but it would be better to use a waterproof carpenter's glue for things like laminating the sheer clamp, and attaching the stringers to the bulkheads & frames
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